Emu, inside drum, raw

The inside drum comes from the emu's leg and is a slightly more sinewy, well-worked cut than the rump, so it rewards slower cooking methods that break down connective tissue, braising, stewing or slow roasting, rather than a fast sear. Its flavor is rich and beef-like, and it takes well to being cut into strips for a stir-fry, cubed for a stew alongside root vegetables, or ground and used in place of beef mince in burgers, chili or meatballs. Because the meat is very lean, dishes built around it often benefit from a splash of oil, a fattier sauce or a longer cook in liquid to keep it moist. It also marinates well, since its dense texture absorbs herbs, garlic and citrus over a few hours in the refrigerator.

Look for drum cuts sold vacuum-sealed and frozen from specialty butchers or game-meat suppliers, and thaw in the refrigerator rather than at room temperature to keep the lean meat from drying out. At 108 calories per 85-gram serving with 22.2 grams of protein, 44 percent of the daily value, this cut delivers a substantial amount of protein for relatively few calories, and its 1.49 grams of fat keep it firmly in lean-meat territory. It also supplies 29 percent DV of iron per 100 grams, worth knowing when comparing red meat cuts for a rotation of iron-contributing proteins through the week.